The True Value of Jewelry: Is it in the Gold or the Artistry?

Jewelry has long been synonymous with wealth, status, and opulence, its value traditionally measured by the rarity and cost of its raw materials like gold, diamonds, and emeralds. However, a paradigm shift is underway in the contemporary jewelry scene. Increasingly, the true value of a piece is recognized as lying not just in its material components but in the artistry and storytelling embedded within its design.

Redefining Precious Materials

Sophia Laurent, the creative director of the Parisian jewelry house Maison Laurent, epitomizes this shift. Her innovative use of materials such as EcoSlate—an industrial byproduct of construction waste—transforms what was once deemed mundane into objects of beauty. By vitrifying EcoSlate into a glossy, obsidian-like material, Maison Laurent challenges traditional norms of luxury. “We aim to redefine what is considered precious,” Laurent explains passionately. “It’s about seeing beauty and value in the unexpected.”


Maison Laurent is not alone in this endeavor. The German jewelry house Steinbach is renowned for its unique combinations of rare gemstones with materials like iron, shells, and wood. These creations, though unconventional, command high prices due to their artistic merit and craftsmanship. “When you look at a piece from Steinbach, it’s not just jewelry—it’s a statement, a piece of art,” says Hans Müller, a long-time collector.

Similarly, Brazilian jeweler Maria de Silva integrates gold and gems with indigenous crafts, showcasing miniature carpets and woven bamboo that celebrate cultural heritage and artisanal skill. De Silva’s pieces are a tribute to the rich traditions of Amazonian craftsmanship, juxtaposed with the luxury of precious metals and stones. “Every piece tells a story,” says de Silva. “It’s a dialogue between cultures, between past and present.”

Flower resin earrings

Sentimental and Historical Significance

For Giulia Rossi, an Italian designer based in Milan, the value of jewelry extends beyond material cost. Rossi incorporates vintage stamps, buttons, casino chips, and toy soldiers into her designs, each piece carrying a story and historical significance. Her unique creations, priced between €4,000 and €12,000, are accompanied by certificates detailing the provenance of the materials used. “The objects I incorporate are not traditionally considered valuable, but in my opinion, their sentimental and historical value is worth more than gold or gemstones,” Rossi explains. “It’s about honoring the past and giving it a new life.”

Rossi’s atelier is a treasure trove of history, with drawers full of vintage stamps, handwritten letters, and other memorabilia. “Sometimes it’s difficult to persuade collectors to part with these items,” she admits. “I have to convince them that I will do justice to the object’s past, that I will transform it into something even more meaningful.”

The Art Jewelry Movement

The appreciation for artistic jewelry is not new. Since the mid-20th century, artists like Marcello Blanco and Elise Dubois have set precedents for using non-precious materials. London’s Artemis Gallery continues this tradition by collaborating with contemporary artists to create limited-edition pieces from materials like silver, copper, porcelain, and glass. “People have become less concerned about the raw materials as long as a piece is beautifully made,” notes Artemis Gallery’s founder, Isabella Hart. “The focus is on the creativity, the story, the craftsmanship.”

This perspective is validated by the market, as exemplified by a Blanco silver necklace selling for $2 million at Sotheby’s New York in 2013. “The cost of the materials is inconsequential,” Hart explains. “Canvas and paint aren’t expensive, but a Picasso is hugely valuable. It’s the same with jewelry.”

Unique necklace made of stones


Technological Advances and Sustainability

Modern technology plays a significant role in this transformation. Techniques such as laser sintering and 3-D printing allow artists to achieve finishes previously unattainable with traditional methods. These advancements enable the use of unconventional materials without compromising on quality or aesthetic appeal. “Technology is a game-changer,” says Alexandre Dupont, a jewelry designer known for his futuristic pieces. “It opens up new possibilities, new ways to express creativity.”

Additionally, the jewelry industry is responding to the growing consumer demand for sustainability. Brands like EcoGems and 886 by The Royal Mint are pioneering the use of recycled gold from electronic waste, rebranding it as “reclaimed” or “salvaged” gold to highlight its eco-friendly credentials. “Using reclaimed gold allows us to create luxury pieces without the environmental impact,” says EcoGems founder, Daniel Carter. “Our customers appreciate knowing that their jewelry is not only beautiful but also sustainable.”

The Royal Mint’s 886 line also includes jewelry made from AgAIN Silver, recovered from medical X-ray films. “The language needs to be developed,” explains Sean Millard, chief growth officer at The Royal Mint. “Recycled can sound less luxurious, so we use terms like ‘reclaimed’ or ‘salvaged.’ It’s about changing perceptions.”

Shifting Consumer Preferences

The shift in what is considered valuable in jewelry also reflects broader consumer trends. Today’s buyers, particularly from younger generations, prioritize unique, meaningful designs that resonate personally. Emma Collins, senior editor for accessories at WGSN, emphasizes that “meaningful design is the most powerful purchasing prerequisite for jewelry, especially as customers want pieces that mark life events or relationships to reflect their own emotions.”

Collins explains that modern consumers are looking for jewelry that tells a story, that connects with them on a deeper level. “It’s not just about the bling anymore,” she says. “It’s about what the piece represents, the craftsmanship, the thought behind it.”

This trend is particularly pronounced among Generation Z, who value sustainability and uniqueness. “For Gen Z, sustainability is the ultimate hallmark of luxury,” says Eliza Walter, founder of Lylie, a brand that uses recycled gold. “They want to know that their jewelry is not only beautiful but also has a positive impact on the world.”


Jewelry made of recycled plastic bottles

The Future of Jewelry Valuation

As the jewelry industry evolves, the focus on design, craftsmanship, and storytelling is likely to intensify. While traditional materials like gold and diamonds will always hold a place in the market, the true value of jewelry increasingly lies in the creative vision and artistic integrity of its makers. This shift not only democratizes the concept of luxury but also paves the way for a more inclusive and sustainable future in jewelry design.

“The future of jewelry is about innovation and creativity,” says Laurent. “It’s about pushing boundaries and redefining what luxury means.”

In conclusion, the modern jewelry landscape illustrates that the worth of a piece is not solely dictated by its material cost. Instead, the true value of jewelry is found in the artistry, innovation, and personal narratives that each piece embodies. As designers continue to push the boundaries of what is considered precious, the appreciation for jewelry as an art form will undoubtedly grow, celebrating creativity over mere commodity.